If you were to praise Klosters for anything it would probably be its modesty. That’s notwithstanding the world class skiing found here, of course. Or even the rather splendid Alpine beauty of it all. It matters not that this Swiss village in Prättigau has been a celebrity haunt since the 1950s, or that the World Economic Forum elite call it home. Klosters refuses to flaunt its connections. Klosters is old–school.
Klosters wouldn’t tell you about its royal endorsements either. This, after all, is a place that enamoured King Charles III so much that he has made his visits into a winter tradition for the past 45 years. A place from which the global media televised iconic moments such as Princes Harry and William learning to ski. But Klosters is not here to outwardly boast. It simply names a cable car to the top of the Gotschnagrat after the king and lets you work out the rest. So, as Swiss ski season looms on the horizon — and in the absence of such homespun hyperbole — here’s what you should know about Klosters.
The Village
You won’t find flashy luxury boutiques or internationally renowned restaurants here like other Swiss ski resorts, even the après–ski scene remains notably quiet and understated. Instead, you’ll discover that an unassuming Co–op supermarket on the main street is where all the action happens. It not only attracts the local residents but also skiers who make their way after coming down from the mountains.
Inside the Co–op you’ll experience the warmth of the community. Locals offer suggestions of the finest cheese for your fondue or share the latest town gossip. For a fleeting moment, you might even forget that you are in Switzerland — until, of course, you reach the cash register and realise that a modest grocery bag sets you back $2.50.
Apart from the supermarket, the town features quaint local boutiques offering handmade goods, fashion stores by local designers, and sophisticated souvenir shops. Restaurants predominantly serve traditional Swiss cuisine, and the town’s nightlife revolves around a few late–night chalets. And this is simply how Klosters has always been. Other than installing wifi connectivity and some restaurant ownership changes, those who return here would discover that the town has remained relatively unchanged — despite the resort’s five decades of fame and recognition.
Why has Klosters ended up like this, and not become like the resorts in Verbier or St Moritz?
Some put it down to the lack of a five star hotels, or as a way to safeguard visitors who value discretion. The reality is that Klosters takes pride in spurning conspicuous consumption. “Residents of Klosters are not interested in Louis Vuitton and luxury brand boutiques,” explains Teresa Schaff, owner of real estate agency Teresa Homes. “They have this down the road in Zurich. Klosters is very grounded and this is what clients appreciate”
The Slopes
Visitors who come to Klosters come to ski, and the skiing is exceptional. With significantly fewer crowds compared to other toptier ski destinations, skiers have ample room to hone their wide carving turns and boost their speed on the resort’s extensive 97 slopes.
This ski paradise spans a total of 320 km of long and wide pistes spread across six mountains between Klosters and Davos. The slopes are conveniently accessible directly from the centre of Klosters via the Gotschna cable cars. As of this year, the cable car proudly bears the inscription, “King Charles III. A cherished guest of Klosters since 1978,” in tribute to King Charles III’s connection to this alpine village.
Ski to the Peak
The largest ski area is found in Parsenn, known as the birthplace of skiing in Switzerland. It has wide endless slopes where you will find small huts and traditional chalet restaurants along the routes.
From the mountain’s midpoint, a second cable car carries skiers to the highest peak of the resort, Weissfluhgipfel, located 2,844 metres above sea level. From this elevated vantage point, visitors can relish panoramic vistas and indulge in hearty Swiss cuisine at the alpine restaurant. Afterwards, they can embark on one of the resort’s most extensive and challenging runs. Covering a distance of 12 kilometres, this trail boasts a thrilling 2,000–metre vertical drop and diverse terrain.
Don’t miss the opportunity to pause at Schwendi in the woods, where you’ll discover two charming rustic mountain restaurants serving delicious rösti. This run eventually guides skiers to the idyllic farming hamlets of Kublis and Serneus.
Day Tours
Aside from Parsenn, there are also some excellent touring options. The circuit of the Madrisa is a classic. This day tour takes you over the Swiss border to Gargellen in Austria and back again. There is also a huge potential for offpiste skiing, too.
Evening Runs
In the evenings, skiers have the option to venture to Rinerhorn, where night skiing is available until 11pm on Wednesdays and Fridays. At the summit of the mountain, you’ll find the Rinerhorn restaurant, where you can cap off a traditional Swiss meal with a bobsleigh ride down the mountain.
The Restaurants
Back in the village there are plenty of dining options after a long day of skiing, wind down at Hotel Wynegg, a restaurant that has served the town for more than 100 years. For a fine dining option, head to Restaurant Gasthaus Höhwald, situated in the neighbouring village of Monbiel. This charming old farmhouse is full of locals and staff wear traditional dirndl dresses in true Swiss spirit.
However, the most iconic dining destination can be found within the Chesa Grischuna hotel, a cherished gathering spot in the village since it opened in 1938. Over the years, this hotel and restaurant has earned the nickname “Hollywood on the Rocks” as it became an international hub for celebrities during their stays in the area.
To witness this first–hand, head down to the basement where you can inspect the guestbook with signatures from legends such as Greta Garbo, Audrey Hepburn, Bing Crosby, and Gene Kelly. While in the basement, guests can also partake in a round of bowling at the charmingly rustic bowling alley, the very same spot where Audrey Hepburn and numerous other celebrities enjoyed evenings of skittles. Chesa Grischuna is also known for its food, led under the Austrian chef Ronald Fressner, who was awarded 15 Gault & Millau points for his cuisine, making it the highestrated restaurant in town.
The Hotels
First–time visitors to Klosters may find it surprising that there are no five–star hotels within the village. While establishments like Vereina and Piz Buin could easily be mistaken for super luxe accommodations, they are officially recognised as four–plus star hotels. Some speculate that the absence of five–star hotels may be a deliberate choice to deter nouveau–riche skiers from discovering Klosters online, while others suggest an unspoken rule may be in place prohibiting the opening of luxury hotels in the town.
However, even though you won’t encounter a One&Only in Klosters, don’t be surprised if you happen to spot a prince or two while shopping at the local Co–op supermarket.
