Within the halls of the prestigious Elmayer Dance School, the air hums with the rhythmic shuffling of feet and soft melodies of classical music. For the past months, the school has been preparing debutantes and students of all levels the delicate steps and rapid spins that define the Viennese waltz.
“All it takes is the repetition of the same six steps time and again,” explains dance school’s director, Thomas Schäfer–Elmayer.
Whether these “simple” steps are enough to capture the dance’s inherent elegance and briskness, is still a question up for debate. Yet, Schäfer–Elmayer, one of Austria’s most acclaimed ballroom dancers, is adamant that these steps are the key to unlocking the accelerated speed and euphoric movements that can only be found in the Viennese Waltz.
His conviction is shared by many. As the oldest and most reputable ballroom academies in Vienna, Schäfer–Elmayer continues to attract thousands of eager dancers each year, all seeking to perfect the Viennese waltz in time for the city’s most anticipated winter tradition— ballroom season.
From November through February, Vienna transforms into a grand stage, showcasing more than 450 balls across the city, with some venues welcoming as many as 6,000 guests at a time.
How Vienna became the ballroom capital of the world
This cultural tradition dates back to the 19th century when the Habsburg monarchy meticulously orchestrated grandiose balls to entertain the many royals and aristocracies during their extended stays in the capital.
At these balls, waltzing would continue in endless rotation late into the early morning hours. Partners would become lost in each other’s embrace, whisking and gliding seamlessly across the crowded dance floor —which partially explains why the waltz was originally seen as a guilty pleasure until it became the epitome of social fashion.
As ballroom dancing gained popularity, the Austrian elite started to hold private balls at their own grand palaces, hence why hundreds of balls started to take place across the city. Many of these events were established to honour various trades and industries — similar to the exclusive membership clubs and societies that exist in today’s culture.
To this day, a number of the traditional balls from that period continue to be celebrated, attracting everyone from politicians and bankers to celebrities and even chimney sweepers. The peak of the ball season falls between January and February, and they certainly live up to the hype. Held in lavish palaces and venues, the winter balls transport guests to the glamour of this bygone era.
Navigating a Viennese ball
These renowned balls are steeped in tradition and precise protocols. The dress code is exceptionally strict. Women are expected to wear full–length gowns while men are required to don black–tie or tuxedos suits. Wearing a wristwatch is seen as faux pas — instead, the preferred accessory is a golden watch complete with a chain.
The evening kicks off with an elegant opening ceremony featuring debutantes — young women attending their first ball. Adorned in white gowns and escorted by their tuxedo–clad partners, they gracefully waltz around the dance floor, creating a mesmerizing, rhythmic spectacle.
After their performance, the director announces, “Alles walzer!” signalling everyone to waltz. Guests then engage in a fast–paced waltz, moving in a clockwise direction. This is where mastering the six steps of the waltz becomes useful, requiring quick turns to avoid remaining stationary.
At these balls, no detail is left to chance. Many will be equipped with seamstresses and sewing machines, ready to mend any gowns torn by less graceful dancers. For those dancers in need of an energy boost to last through the night, it is customary to stop for a serving of goulash soup or other Austrian culinary delights.
The most anticipated balls of the season
Confectioners’ Ball
Hosted at the Hofburg, the Confectioners’ Ball is particularly known for its impressive cake exhibition. Organised by Viennese bakers and confectioners, this gourmet affair is most likely the sweetest ball night of them all. Guests have the chance to win one of 3,000 artisanal cakes or purchase a special “cake guarantee” ticket to ensure to take home a handcrafted cake at the end of the evening .
Date: 11 January 2024
Philharmonic ball
Now in its 81st year, The Philharmonic ball offers music enthusiasts an opportunity to waltz to live melodies from one of the world’s most renowned orchestras—the Vienna Philharmonic.
Originally created as a chance for the Philharmonic musicians to connect with the Viennese society, the ball has since evolved and draws over 3,000 guests annually. Held in the magnificent Golden Hall of the Musikverein, guests are treated to a mix of straussing Viennese waltzes and contemporary songs, performed in tandem by the orchestra and a modern band. Having attracted legacies of artistic legends over its history, the Philharmonic Ball retains its reputation as one of the highlights of the Viennese ball season.
Date: 18 January 2024
Vienna Science ball
The most distinguished members of the capital’s research and university community come together in the state rooms inside City Hall for the Vienna Science Ball. The ball was set up by the City of Vienna in 2015 and is intended to draw attention to excellence, diversity and international collaboration in science.
Date: 27 January 2024
Coffeehouse Owners’ Ball
Renowned for its authentic Viennese charm, the prestigious Coffeehouse Owners’ Ball is one of the most popular balls of the season. It is also the only gala that uses all the elegant ballrooms of the Hofburg Palace, making it Vienna’s largest traditional ball. Drawing around 5,000 guests annually, international visitors and residents come together for a magical evening of revelry continuing into the early morning hours. Paying tribute to the Coffee House Owners guild, the Imperial Palace transforms into an ornate coffee house setting, serving coffee and other treats – which is greatly cherished after a night of dancing.
Date: 2 February 2024
Opera ball
The Opera Ball is the pinnacle event marking the finale of Vienna’s ballroom season. Hosted in the majestic Vienna State Opera, this gala exudes glitz and glamour, attracting a star–studded guest list of cultural icons, celebrities, royals, and high–ranking politicians worldwide. Considered Austria’s counterpart to New York’s Met Gala, the Opera Ball dazzles with a fusion of dance and musical performances by talented Vienna State Ballet ballerinas and opera singers.
Past celebrity attendees include the likes of Pamela Anderson, Kim Kardashian, and Paris Hilton, among other big names. Captured live on television from red carpet arrivals to exclusive VIP interviews, the Opera Ball encapsulates the sheer grandeur and spectacle of this phenomenal affair.
Date: 8 February 2024
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