Philipp Plein, known for his edgy and striking designs, launched his new timepieces in Dubai Mall – The $pectre collection. The launch took place at Maison du Luxe earlier this week, where Plein sat down with Arabian Business Traveller to explain the timepieces, thoughts on industry players, inspirations and success.
“So, I opened my first store in Dubai in Wafi Mall, a long time ago, this is way before [Mall of the] Emirates was even built,” Plein said while sipping on an energy drink, which he said he survives on during his trips around the world. The name and face behind the brand, Plein is heavily involved with the day-to-day decision-making and operations of the business.
Plein founded the brand at 19 and began sales at the age of 20, currently at 45-years-old he said the brand is “still growing” and will “continue to grow.”
“I am a watch guy, I really like watches, I collect watches. Men don’t like handbags! Watches and cars? Sure. I’m a typical guy,” said Plein, while holding one of his newly launched timepieces.

The $pectre Chronograph and $keleton $pectre are showcased in Dubai Mall in a dedicated area within boutique Maison Luxe, where they are available for sale starting March 2023.
“We are now sold in 50 countries, in over 4,000 points of sale. So, that’s a big success,” Plein explained, attributing the success to what he describes as “a really good product.”
Comparing his brand to other industry players, he explained that what sets his brand apart is the fact that he is really involved with the project. “When you do a license, normally, the designer gives his brand away,” he said with disapproval.
“Most of the biggest brands which are our competitors are managed by big investment funds, you know LVMH, Kering, so there is a management who decides about expenses, new investments,” Plein said, emphasising the lack of personal involvement, “There is no more real emotional side. In this era today, most of the designers are like prostitutes or soccer players, you have a contract for five years with Burberry, and if you don’t perform they sell you and take on another one.”
The Philipp Plein timepieces were launched in collaboration with Timex, one of the biggest licence partners for fashion and luxury. The license started two years ago with the launch of the first collection taking place last year. “It was a very big success for Timex, according to them, the biggest success they ever had for a new launch,” Plein explained.
Being a watch collector himself, Plein said that he wanted to make a watch that he and his friends would wear. “People buy a Versace watch or a Gucci watch, but who buys those? The people who normally cannot afford a Rolex or an Audemars Piguet or Patek,” he describes these purchases as an entry to the brand.
Plein explained that he designed his timepieces to overcome an obstacle and describes the strategy to the watchmaker, Swatch. “It didn’t matter what income people had, everyone wanted to have a Swatch.” He wanted to make a watch that anybody would wear, even if they already own expensive watches.
“When you go for a big brand, people just pay for the name but I say, I created this brand 25 years ago and I am still creating it. The product here is the key driver.” Plein proudly claimed.
The brand’s logo ‘PP’ faces in opposite directions, to most, it signifies Philip Plein, however, he revealed that the letters signify something else too – Product and People.

Plein revealed that the brand’s next move is to attack a niche market, “I like to attack my competitors from behind.” He revealed that they are headed to the Geneva market next month where they will be launching a swiss made watch called Crypto King. The watch is going to be sold alongside an NFT. The aim of this move is to bring Web 3.0 to the traditional luxury distribution of watches.
The brand has major moves planned for the upcoming years, with the watch industry in high focus. Plein concluded that he hopes to break the barriers and succeed whilst doing it.
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